A mate of mine that I saw (on the tv) during the week, is an Aussie legend and has inspired this recount of our latest adventures with one of his all time greatest tag lines. I had to amend these sacred words slightly to fit in with our story but I feel it will be fitting.
Re-united with Le Vessel in Airlie Beach, we had a week to explore this gateway to the Whitsundays and meet some lucky and not so lucky pirates. A transient town with more backpacks than house keys, the locals are incredibly friendly and were making the most of the annual sailing regatta and pumping tourist scene that was hitting town. The crew took a particular liking to the Fat Frog Beach Cafe in Cannonvale and only partly due to the rather large ship wreak, the infamous Whitsunday Magic, parked right out front (super unlucky pirates). Preparing for our coming week with a packed ship, a mammoth shop was undertaken. This perticular excursion happened to end with us meeting 2 real life ‘pirates’ sailing a 1480’s Caravel replica named ‘NOTORIOUS’ up the coast from Victoria (lucky pirates). Returning to the crew was also Deckhand Kosterlitz who had been enslaved in Sumatra for 2 months and forced to surf 3-4 times a day. Looking suprisingly elated, Kosterlitz was rescued off the ferry and we were tasked with scouting the bustling local alehouses for any potential crew on our last night before hitting the high seas.
A pick up of 3 new crew was on the cards for the Saturday and we couldn’t wait. Sister of the year Stella Watson, the famous Julia Stone and army baseball extraordinaire Bill Hadden were to be picked up from Hamilton Island on the Saturday. This left us with one serene stop to make with just the 4 boys. The place was to be Cid harbour and its eerie clouds laid over the dense jungle peaks left us in complete awe and also slightly disheartened. After embarking on a wet 2 hour mountain climb we were led only to a thick blanket of clouds and a wet rock as the reward. Blaming ourselves not Cid we labelled this place unreal none the less and were sad to be chugging on.
Saturday was in and the bustle began. Hamilton Island race week was to commence that day and we were in the middle of it. Wild Oats XI among other large and pricy vessels cluttered the waters outside Hamilton as the Forte waited patiently for its arrivals. In complete leisure we marvelled the at this dicey dance between boats and the jumbo planes that were attempting to land during the chaos. Glad to be in and out, we gathered our guests with relative ease and headed to Gulnare Inlet for the night. The occasion of Deckhand Kosterlitz’s birthday and the arrival of the 3 doctors (well studying but still) led to many celebratory drinks, and the relief we were back to the boating adventure. Tomorrow we were off to Whitehaven Beach.
This icon of sand is internationally lauded and does not disappoint. Crystal water, fluorescent green trees, bluer than blue sky, oh and the blindingly white sand. Within seconds of the anchor hitting the sea bed, the boat was empty. Snorkelling, paddle boarding, swimming, strolling and goanna spotting occupied our time for hours. The wind was non-existent and the day rolled on in bliss with the local sea turtles keeping us company.
Hook Island anchorage was our port for the night and in whitsunday magnificence it could not be more impressive. Never left with a dull moment in this peaceful paradise, an attempt at fishing from the paddle board by Deckhand Chaney brought up 0 fish but was an impressive display for all of us watching and proved to be a unexpected shark spotting adventure. Pushing on the next morning, we made tracks forward to Echo Beach on the mainland peninsula opposite Gloucester Island. A relaxed afternoon in the sun had the doctors sampling oysters straight off the rocks and all of us gearing up for a scarce treat organised for that night, a pub meal.
Fresh from our gorging the night before, it was an early start for the following day. Dead calm water and some friendly dolphins made it a relaxed motor up to Cape Upstart that had us completely alone at the anchorage for the night. This was not to say we didn’t see any boats. As the girls threw in a line off the back of the boat, a few (slightly intoxicated) local fisherman couldn’t help swinging by to have a chat (and a stare). I think we met all of the locals that afternoon. A busy time was capped off by a massive catch by Master Chaney which left him stoked for weeks.
Our date with Magnetic Island was due to commence the next day so we we were off again cruising with distinct polarity. It was Wednesday and we tied up by the early afternoon and took time to marvel. Striking us immediately was the landscape of this unique place. We had to explore and the next day we were straight in to it. Mokes were the way to do it, and we did it well. From top to bottom we saw the sights and played like flippant kids let out for the day. The island was unreal and we felt like perfect puzzle pieces slotting right in to its relaxed friendly world. Running in the shores, baking under palms and climbing granite headlands perched out from deserted bays. It is a place to admire.
Saturday came quickly, and the 3 newest guests had to depart. We had a time and a half with them and appreciate the laughs and great company they shared. With the mainland calling, the crew took the little boat over to Townsville for the day to visit the cinema and to do a bit of exploring. After wandering the streets for a few hours, the gentle breeze became a howling wind, and the deckhands endured a slow, bouncy, and long ride home.
Joining us on the same day (Saturday) was another honorary crew member, Sir George, who would join us for our 3 final days here at Magnetic.
Day 1. We decided to head to beautiful Radical Bay. The deckhands would put pedal to foot and ride the distance while the Captain and George decided to take the small boat. After riding about 10km to the north of the island, and feeling uncomfortably high up, we felt as though our bearings were a bit off. We consulted some local walkers who confirmed our suspicions, we were headed to the WW2 gunners lookout atop one of the higher peaks on the island. Already 30 minutes off track and seeing no harm in being another 15, we strolled to the top and soaked in the view before re-routing to reach Radical Bay. We arrived very hot, tired and more than content about “getting lost.”
Day 2. Sir George had met a well known local (also named George) on his flight to Townsville and, after having a beer with him, his wife and his friends the day before, we were invited to their place for lunch. A keen boatie, fisherman, and great cook, the feast was unreal. We enjoyed sharing stories and getting some great tips for our further travels from all the guests at the house. We invited them to share a beer with us on the back deck of Le Vessel the next night and cannot think of a better send off (Happy Birthday John).
Day 3. As we set off tomorrow, bound for Cairns, we had a day to prep. Other than a quick snorkel thrown in at Nelly Bay, it was shop, clean, and organise at our standard leisurely pace getting ready for the next few days at sea. Moving on at first light, it will be a hard goodbye for us leaving old ‘Maggie’ but one with stern promises that we will be back.
Cairns has our eyes firmly locked on it as we travel up the coast over the next week.
In a while Crocodile.
