Being a main port for the Louisiade Islands, we were keen to get in to Misima and stock up on supplies as well as have a good walk around this larger island town. The misgave royals (Jethro and Marianne) had to book some flights home and Le Vessel needed to have a good drink before continuing on with the journey, so we were all keen to arrive. As we pulled in to the small harbour (maybe 50m wide) we felt like one big fish in a very small bowl. Most of PNG, most especially the islanders, isn’t well known for its productivity so we had a few onlookers from the not so busy (seemingly, and later confirmed as, close to the whole village) as we laid anchor just off the public wharf. Made up of 4 ‘chinese stores’ (2 dollar shop with food supplies and other necessities *because they are 90% owned by chinese expats) a bakery, westpac 'bank', police station, guest house, school and market; the town of Misima was all happening. As the travelling islanders had their longboats and sailing canoes parked on the shore to shop and trade, the supply boat (old wooden trawlers that look less than seaworthy) were packed close to sinking point with their supplies for the shops either loading or unloading.
The locals here were incredibly friendly and seemed to welcome us and say hi whenever we walked around without hesitation genuinely interested in us. As we pulled up to the public wharf on monday (17th) to re-fuel, the locals were waiting in droves to help and have a chat. The royals were off to sort out the challenge of booking flights and the deckhands had hit the markets to stock up. A hand pump from barrels in 32 degree heat and cigarette in full swing is standard at the bowser at Misima, with any of the locals just pitching in to help out if they wanted. Once all was sorted and the boat back at anchor, it was declared a successful stop off and the plan was set to head the next morning.
Pulling out of the harbour a 5hr leg SW along the coast of Misima Island to Ebora anchorage was ahead of us. Deemed the best anchorage so far on the trip it was close to a disney film as the Forte came in to Ebora. 20m from a volcanic cutaway cliff laden with lush jungle trees, moss and shrubs, we drop the anchor and lay a stern line in to shore. School was out for the day and 30-40 of the local kids were splashing around and hiding in the jungle next to us. Not to be rude we took to jumping off the roof and having a swim with them all. As we thought we were pretty cool the kids were already 2 steps ahead and were scaling the 10m cliff and jumping from the trees in to the perfect water surround it all. Settling in for the afternoon we had stumbled on a beauty of epic proportions.
Day 2 in our fantasy picture and we were led around the village and on an incredibly unique walk. Past the local waterfall, through the village and gardens, then back over to the school all with a trail of kids keeping us entertained. A bit of trading and a good swim and snorkel took over the afternoon and that was to be the end of our feature in this wonderland.
As we left that morning for the Deboyne group and Panapompom Island we faced in to some pretty rough seas. Coming out the other side alive and well we picked a safe spot just off the southern side of the island. In solitude again as we had been at every other anchorage, we set out to meet the villagers and have a fish with them as a 20m square school of sardines lay less than 10m from their shore. A bit of bait was all we could score but laid plans for a walk to the school and a special snorkel for the next day. Wandering along after breakfast we took the local walking track along the coast past 5 or so villages an up to the primary school. Almost deserted we found one mixed class with teacher Julie greeting us. She quickly explained that the day before was a sports day and over half of the kids were to tired to walk the average 1.5hrs to school that day. Considering our own incredible heat and sweat floodedd clothes we found it a pretty fair excuse and after giving some pens and rulers headed on back to the boat. For that afternoon we had heard there was an old WWII plane wreak close by and had to have a look. With our local guide Martin, we scouted it out and dove for a good hour on the Japanese ‘Zero’ war plane that was still in great condition and teaming with sea life.
While diving the wreak, a local from a nearby island pulled up in his long boat and offered to take us fishing and diving for crayfish the next day. A quick team ‘yep!’ was the consensus and we had day 3 sorted. Collecting us mid-morning we all jumped in the long boat and with our new mate and his 4 friends, we headed for the outer reef. A wet but incredibly fun ride out then transpired in to another incredible snorkel. A bit of bad luck was out to foil it all with a super strong tide and torrential rain setting in within half an hour. Waiting it out we then went for a quick fish but had no luck there either and called it a day.
After another memorable stop we had a deadline to meat as the royals were bound for Australia on the Monday (24th). A super steep and sloppy ride back to Misima had us all a little worse for ware but the relatively short trip was over soon enough. The round of farewells with the royals was upon us once again and as our most prominent and loved crew set off it was the end of an epic chapter for the boat adventure. With another 2 day stop in Misima it was back to stocking up supplies and enjoying a few unexpected extra curricula’s. After meeting 2 of the local teachers by chance on the last visit, the deckhands soon saw the old/new friends again and the crew were invited up to the school for a look. Again the place was basically deserted (this time due to a water and plumbing issue) it was still great to meet some of the other teachers and drop off supplies. On the morning of our final day (Tuesday) the deckhands were invited to the local yr 10 soccer game that morning as they were practicing for a tournament that coming thursday against another local school. Severly out matched and out endured in the 35 degree heat, the deckhands still held their own on their respective teams and were stoked for the opportunity. A long afternoon of recovery and preparation was what proceeded as the 12hr straight motor to their next destination had the crew organising and prepping for the onward journey.
5am lift off and Woodlark island was where we were aiming. Almost directly north we contended with not too bad conditions to make it just in time for sunset. With only 2 nights here we were taken on a full tour of the village and its surrounding airstrip, hospital, market and school for the morning. An old US army base and now hub for the local mining site. we tracked along the overgrown concrete roads and saw one of the wealthier villages we have seen. Happy for a bit of down time we settled in for the afternoon with a quick explore and an unsuccessful fish from the deckhands rounding out the day.
As the next sun rose the deckhands grew an idea from the previous days exploration that with the right conditions could be monumental.... It was.
The 15-20 knot winds from the last few days had dropped but left behind a consistent lump on the outer sea. With the reef only a 10 minute tinny ride away, a surfboard and hand plane were assembled and the outboard fired up. Arriving at the chosen location was equal to seeing light after months of blindness. A smooth 2-3ft left hand reef break was peeling in and a moment for the history book about to be written. No sooner was the engine cut off than the deckhands had hit the water and 3 hours of fun begun. Swapping between the two crafts, collecting some coral cuts and giggling uncontrollably all enveloped around this session at woodlark that day (28th). History for boat adventure was now made as the first break to be surfed in PNG had now come to light.
Following this epic morning, another departure on the cards and a new destination to be reached. From Woodlark it was a straight 40hrs north across the Soloman Sea to where we reside now in Rabaul. The team decision was 2 nights and one day so at 3pm on the 28th it was go time. Missing sleep, hardly eating and endlessly staring at the horizon are all the joys that come with these trips so I’ll not recount much else but to say we arrived. In 1994 (and also more recently with less impact) one of the 5 volcanos in Rabaul erupted spewing a large blanket of ash over the city and sending it in to a ghost town. The newly established village is now Kokopo which is on the coast just 30km to the SSE and where we have anchored for our time here. It was 9:30am on Sunday the 30th when we motored in to Kokopo, by far the largest city we have been to yet, which in comparison is about the same size as Byron Bay. 5 Days here will see us do some good city exploring, including world aids day yesterday (1st Dec), and take a tour to the old city of Rabaul while visiting to the live volcano today.
Kavieng city and Nusa Island Resort is our next destination and our final stop in PNG!!! Leaving Thursday evening we will be chasing the surf up there for the next 4 months and aiming to create more moments for the history books. With internet hopefully being more reliable up there it will hopefully not be too long in between stories.
New Photos up now. Click HERE
Lukim yu
