Rabaul Finals
A very long break in between posts but we are still floating and living the PNG life (clearly on island time). It has been one hell of a 3 months. Leaving off the posts last from Rabaul/Kokopo, it is crucial to round that out. More specifically, our day tour through the ruined city of Rabaul and its famous volcano.
Being picked up by Richard our chauffeur (12yr old highly personalised Honda HR-V taxi) at 9am, we set off through the streets taking in the sights and thrills of being in a car for the first time in PNG. Pulling up to re-fuel was something new as we stopped next to a tiny wood shack and promptly bought an empty a 5L bottle. Slightly confused by the empty container, it was handed to a local ragamuffin who ran it to the local house, where it was filled and then poured into the car with a funnel (we had to provide). As this was happening, a local lady who was collecting mangoes walked over and gave us a few to try. Richard showed us that they are ‘Apple mangoes’ and once skinned and sliced we nibbled in, finding that they were crunchy and fibrous. A 6/10 overall, we were educated once again on the local delights and happy to set off to our next stop, the ‘Barge tunnels’. Here we found five 30m long Japanese war barges that lay rusting away in a huge tunnel in the side of a mountain. It was explained to us that in WW2 these were transported down to the water (200m away) on tracks and launched for supply transport. When attacked, the Japanese hid them in these huge tunnels (built through slave labour by the PNG people) until ditching them once they were defeated. Pretty impressed, we were soon to learn that similar wreaks and treasures lay all throughout PNG and its waters. A constant reminder to foreign travellers and especially the locals of just what went on not too long ago.
Heading off we were bound for the mountainous terror that lay atop Rabaul city. En route to the volcano we visited the Rabaul Hotel and Yamamoto’s bunker, soaking up the intense history that is embedded in the area. Being taken aback by how close to home this all was put it all into perspective of how thankful we should be to have been saved before this ever reached our shores. From our vantage point, we could easily see the volcanos innocently sunk into their surroundings. The smallest of the three was the most active of them all (most recent explosion being Oct 2014), and is often seen billowing plumes and rocks a few times a week. Desolate land surrounded the area for 5-6km and the ongoing devastation on the local town ever present with blankets of ash smothering the majority of the area. Entering the land for 10 Kina, we drove along the road whereby a spring of boiling water across the road stopped our tracks and we were instantly stifled with the added heat and acrid sulphurous stench coming from the ground. There was no activity from the beast during our encounter but we stood in awe of the intense power contained within, a special sight and fantastic life experience (chills).
Rounding out experiences in Rabaul we made the most of our remaining time and had taken to filling the afternoon with an extensive nap and a quick diving and swimming comp (crazy clear waters). That evening we were invited to a special birthday celebration with the manager of the Kokopo Beach Resort and her friends and enjoyed an incredible evening of food, drink and conversation with 10-15 people we had never met. Having completed our stay we stocked up and on the evening of December 4th, sailed off in to the sunset, Kavieng Bound.
Kavieng
If the dreary recounts of the last, and above, posts haven’t put you to sleep, then a dreary recount of 3 1/2 months in Kavieng could put any herd of insomniacs in to a coma. Hoping to avoid that end for the already generous readers, surmising our time is the following plan. In no set order or logical sense of course (thrills).
Surf
Surf boarding is the #1 aim of our game in Kavieng. The birth of this adventure was mostly on the basis of the captains experiences surfing up here with his mates, and his wanting to do it Forte 3 style. Being without waves since South Stradbroke 5 months before is a torturous feeling and we were more than ready to get jiving. After arriving at 1pm, we were wet and boarding by 4pm sharp (spills). Kavieng and the New Ireland area is governed by a Surf Management Plan which aims to give back to the local communities. A small fee per day is taken from overseas surfers and a 20 person restriction placed on the surf breaks within the area. By our count, between the crew, we have surfed 41 days out of the 85 here so far.
A lot of those have been unreal with a number of breaks proving to be mechanically perfect. With 3 consistent breaks (Nago Left, Nusa Left and Pikinnini’s) being the common places to surf, we also got wet at Ral, Long Longs, Nago Rights, Nusa Bombie and Edmago (with a road trip down the coast to some forgotten breaks on day too). Perfect 6-10 ft lefts and rights on the rare occasion with a more consistent 2-4ft swell had us on the long and shorts day in day out equally thrilled on whatever craft was under foot. With an unforgiving coral floor, booties are essential but with 30 degree water and 30-40 degree weather year round, it was minimal clothing and full zinc layering as a must. A world away from battling it out on the beaches of Sydney the surf vibe and style up here is perfect. Hoots and yelling is highly encouraged and never has the surf stoke between locals, friends and guests been more refreshing. With our fair share of blow outs, we’ve laughed, coughed, gasped and cut many times throughout the sessions (dings and scars to show). Yet, there’s no doubt surfing here has been absolutely incredible and a rare experience that creates grins, memories and love for this trip, love for the ocean, an love for PNG, back then, now, and for a long time yet.
The Life
Moving to a new town is an experience that takes time. Settling in and getting to know everything the locals do; who’s where, what’s what and where you fit in. On a boat it can be a bit more difficult. Not in Kavieng. Being dim dims (white folk) we were easily noticed and one could say, easy targets. For Kavieng that meant for all the hello’s, smiles and help offered around town. Everyone was so genuinely interested in who we were and wanted to help or befriend us (not to eventually mug us but really be our friends) it was shocking. Life here is simple. You shop at the markets where the local Mary’s (ladies) sold what they grew at home,simply if it’s not in season, it’s not here. No one hassles for a sale, puts the price up on Tuesdays or uses hormones to enhance the pineapples (it tastes better too). The highlanders make it to town on Friday and Saturday so markets are packed and buzzing with good food, then Sunday and Monday it’s closed for religious and community reasons. Trade stores provided all the rest and if the container ship was late, the shelves are left a little bare. Mike runs the hardware, Tony managed our grocery store (5 in town but all same same but different) and Maddie had the parties. If you didn’t know someone in town you say hi, and now you’re friends (wantok’s). Every other Saturday night was taken up by a party at Panapi (Maddie’s place) for some reason or another with whoever, (2-72 years old in attendance, it didn’t matter). After breakfast with a coffee (PNG coffee is supreme) and a morning bomb swim, you looked to the sky. Suns out then you swim, snorkel, surf or explore. Rain or wind meant a bit but reading, chores and swims still worked real nice. Chats to the yachties and fixing things come and go and stress becomes a foreign entity of life to anyone around here. Similarly, money and time, simply becomes just take on a different existence, not determinantly, but to a way of life that is yet to be paralleled in its simple sustainable perfection. Ongoing pressure from a resource poor world has unfortunately had a detrimental effect on the surrounding environment. The locals are not impressed. Westernisation doesn’t fit here, it is not needed, nor is it wanted. We can just hope that the payouts and smoke screens that are allowing this pillaging to happen don’t cost this country its identity. Free in every sense, life here is in such a raw and pure form, and it needs to be kept that way. The PNG locals have it sorted. If others countries did too, they wouldn’t need to do what they are doing (spill).
Nusa
Situated less than 200m away from the Forte was the Nusa Island Retreat. Being the holiday destination where the captain and his mates in the past number of years have come surfing, it was this place that planted the seed to his adventurous dreams. As a result, we were keen to use it as a bit of a base and promised we wouldn’t be too much of a burden. We were soon settled in to the island becoming flies on the coconuts and making a nuisance of ourselves, breaking our stern promise with a smile. Taking up a place in the VIP lounge of an evening, we spent many hours shooting many a breeze at the bar with the crew and providing some entertainment, trying to make up for our daily irritations. On innumerable occasions our inconvenient requests for help were met with a sigh, smile and immediate solution like it wasn’t a problem. So this is a thank you. To this quirky amazing retreat and the people we now call our good friends. The boat boys, ladies of the kitchen, Adolf (cocktail mixologist), reception, security and of corse, Shaun, Shannon, Lou, Luke and Ian. Cheers. Check out www.nusaislandretreat.com - made by yours truly.
Yachting
The nomadic trail of international yachties isn’t something thats ever really publicised or talked about, unless you are one. You then realise how adventurous and economising others are and what seemed like an epic journey in your world, is not even a second thought in others. Before reaching Kavieng we had met 1 yacht in Alotau and another 2 in Kokopo. Not many for the 4 weeks travel. But having stationed ourselves in Kavieng (being a larger port) for 3 months, we saw a number of people come and go and were incredibly proud and excited to be among this crew of adventurous boaters. Sharing stories, a cup of sugar or a spare engine filter is the community we are now apart of. Here are a few of the people we shared time with: Java - owned by Evan with girlfriend Donna and dog Micro, from the US, ex navy seal who’s lived and travelled around the world on his 48ft catamaran for the past 15 years, he’s 72. Highway Star - Glen, Katrina from Melbourne set off on trip #2 after travelling around Indonesia and Asia for 2 years they are going again, for who knows how long. Harold with crew Sherrin, built his boat from scratch in Austria, sailed it down the local river, through eastern Europe, out to sea and then around the world for the past 14 years. Nalukai - Levinson family (Jeremy, Iona, Phoebe, Hatty, Willow) from Victoria, bought their 55ft catamaran in Aus (from Wayne Lynch surfer) and set off around the world, 4 years ago. The girls are boat schooled, aged 6-10, and the family now plan to slowly head home. Honey - Crowe Family (Tim, Jude, Ella, Sam) sold their small time honey making business and bought their first ever boat from Thailand. Lived there for 3 months until ready to sail and with no boating experience have happily made it through 12 months of cruising Indonesia. Another 8 or so boats with people of similar plans and experiences stopped through at some point. Incredible people all just wanting to live without restrictions and seeing the world all on a shoestring. Amazing friendships were made and an inspirational seeds planted. For what seems so daunting and difficult is in reality so so easily achieved if you just put your mind to it and do it.
People
Throughout our time here the make up of the crew has been forever changing as we said goodbye to a few, reunited with some and had a bunch of new members come and go. Deckhand Chaney our #1 crew member since the Gold Coast and a permanent fixture in this whole charade departed for the last time on the 29th of December bound for Sydney town. A loss we are still battling through, he is more than happy to be out of the nut house and home with the family, shaping, sliding and living. Replacing the loss of Mike was the Watson clan made up of Stella, Bob, Lesla and Tim who arrived on Jan 3rd. For a week we dealt with a lot of rain, however with the crew of another yacht, Highway Star, we toured the local islands with complete stoke. From the 11th of Jan the whole crew returned to Aus allowing Captain Watson and Deckhand Watson to reunite with home and renew visas. An optimistic 1 week turn around was blown on day 1 by the PNG consulate and the flight back was now to be the 25th. Hitting what was now our second home, we were immediately settled and off for another cruise. For the first time since Sydney it was just father and son. A 5 day exploration to Ungalick Island, New Hanover, provided incredible sights and experiences that were to be re-visited 2 more times (chills). Some good maintenance time was put in replacing batteries and re-fueling before the captain headed home and Deckhand Watson was solo for 10 days. Completing a website, surfing and meeting new yachts occupied a blissful week (more chills). Rounding out our time in Kavieng we had invited 2 groups of friends up for consecutive weeks of surfing and touring. From the 19th of Feb until the 8th of March we were filled with mates, laughs, banter, beers and good times. Hopefully we provided some good entertainment as we were blessed to have all of them come up and join in.
This leaves us at 1 week ago. With Captain Watson again departing to Sydney for a week, Deckhand Watson and the newest addition, Deckhand Bentley (forgot to mention he arrived on March 2nd) were charged with preparing for departure. With 2 large cyclones (Solomons and North Qld) creating some crazy weather in our direct path (to Cairns), Le Vessel is in holding. Re-fueling, food shop, customs and immigration planning, as well as a quick highway tour to see eels (they were real big) and to a swimming hole, has been the occupation. With a lot of backgammon, swimming and reading thrown in, its time to go. For the last time. We are making a passage through PNG, Kavieng to Samurai Island, and across the Coral Sea. With weather permitting we will be on our way. Home.
A final post to round out this all will come once we are safely at port in Cairns marina. Until then,
Bon Voyage
